Coeur d'Alene, Idaho - Aug. 25 - Sept. 6, 2005
After our long trip through Canada, we happily arrived at the Blackwell Island RV Resort on August 25th. We selected this resort because it offers free WIFI and we were desperate to get back in touch with our world via the Internet and were still too far north for our satellite system. It turned out to be a wise decision. Blackwell Island Resort is pretty new so the trees were quite small, but it has a wonderful location on the Spokane River as it flows out of Lake Coeur d'Alene and directly across from the town, the college campus and fantastic bicycle trails. We fell in love with the town and the area.
Coeur d'Alene has so much going for it. It is situated near a very large, crystal blue lake fed by streams and rivers flowing from the surrounding mountains. The pedestrian friendly town center is very near the lake and boasts wonderful restaurants, art galleries and shops. The sidewalks are wide and shaded by large trees and the light standards are hung with baskets of petunias and geraniums. There is a large city park adjacent to a resort hotel and marina complex that includes a long, lovely public beach and boardwalk. Of course, we don't know how it would be in the winter.
Our days here were warm and sunny. We spent them exploring the town, biking a very small portion of the Coeur d'Alene (73 miles long) and Centennial (28 miles in Idaho and 36 miles in Washington) bike paths, visiting the Cataldo Mission established in the 1844's by the Jesuits and the oldest building in Idaho, hanging out in great used bookstores, taking a scenic drive north to the resort community of Sandpoint on Lake Pend Oreille to attend their farmer's market, and catching up with friends, family, business and chores - including giving the truck and RV much needed baths.
Interesting Note: Lake Pend Oreille (pronounced pond oray) is about 50 miles long and about 1,200 feet deep. The lake was used for submarine training during World War II and is still used for submarine testing today.
Hurricane Katrina struck the gulf coast during this time and we were somewhat glued to the TV. Like so many others, we were stunned by the fury and destruction of the storm, and appalled by the plight of the victims and the government's pitiful response.
Spokane, Washington - Sept. 6 - 9, 2005
Upon returning from Canada we were faced with repairing some mechanical problems. We noticed a distinct circular pattern of sprayed grease on two of the trailer's wheels. While in Coeur d'Alene we contacted North Idaho Mobile RV Service. Bob arrived, inspected the wheels and diagnosed, "broken wheel bearing seal and fractured brakes". Oh goody! We were already scheduled to move to an RV park in Spokane within walking/biking distance of a diesel garage, so Bob agreed to order the brakes and make the repairs at our location in Spokane.
The truck continued to blow blue smoke upon start up, especially when it was cold. Since it was cold nearly every morning in Canada it seemed to be particularly pronounced. Fortunately, nobody called the environmental police on us but it was dang embarrassing. Since we have been unsuccessfully trying to resolve this problem from the time when we left Sacramento in November 2004, we decided to get out the big guns (read checkbook) and replace all the injectors.
Bottom line is our three days in Spokane were spent taking care of the RV and truck repairs. If it wasn't within walking distance - and our location wasn't bike or pedestrian friendly - we didn't go there or see it. Consequently, we didn't do or see much. However, we were given another opportunity just 10 days later.
Kamiah, Idaho - Sept. 9 - 19, 2005
We decided it was time to meander south for our eventual rendezvous with Claire and Ken in Buhl, Idaho (near Twin Falls). We selected a Passport America Park (half price!) on the Clearwater River just outside the village of Kamiah. The park is situated on the Nez Perce (nez purse) Indian Reservation in the western foothills of the Bitterroot Mountains. The Lewis and Clark Corp of Discovery were rescued from starvation by the Nez Perce in 1805 during their western journey; and during their return journey spent five weeks in the spring of 1806 at Long Camp waiting for the snows to melt. Long Camp is just across the river from where we parked.
Lewis and Clark bi-centennial events were scheduled for September 13 - 26 starting in Lolo, Montana and following the Corp's progress to Lewiston, Idaho. The events included a re-enactment of their 2005 camp including costumed actors and presentations by historians, Native Americans, naturalists and enthusiasts.
We devoted one day to driving 100 miles up the Northwest Passage Scenic Byway, Highway 12, to Lolo Pass. Highway 12 traverses the Clearwater and Lochsa Rivers. This route earned the term "scenic". At the Visitor's Center at Lolo Summit we had an opportunity to talk with mountain men, and 19th Century navigation, munitions and medicinal experts. You don't even want to know how the cured venereal disease at the time.
In Kamiah, we visited Long Camp and chatted with costumed experts on the skills needed on the Corp of Discovery, including cooking, cartography, and tin and iron smithing. Included in the many events at Kamiah Riverfront Park were "first person" presenters. Our favorite was a "re-enactment" of Toussaint Charbonneau bidding farewell to Meriweather Lewis at the Mandan Villages in 1806. They recounted several events of their two-year journey up the Missouri River, across the Bitterroot Mountains and down the Columbia River to the Pacific. We, along with many others, were disappointed that Sacajawea did not arrive for her presentation. Apparently, she was more dependable in her 1805 incarnation.
Our location at the Lewis and Clark RV Park was directly across the street from "Heart of the Monster", the Nez Perce equivalent of the "Garden of Eden". According to their creation legend, Coyote slew a terrible monster in this location and tossed portions of the beast in four directions. From various parts of the monster emerged the Yakima, Flathead, Blackfoot and Coeur d'Alene people. From the Heart of the Monster emerged the Nez Perce. You don't want to know what happened to the muskrat during this event.
Spokane Redux - Sept. 19 - 22, 2005
Our faithful steed was still smoking and had developed a few other little quirks - like dying at inopportune times. (As the surgeon general keeps warning, if one smokes one has to expect these things.) So, it was back to Spokane to contribute a few more dollars to the garage. Fortunately, this time we knew we wouldn't have Internet service and planned accordingly so had a better experience.
We took a very pleasant ride on the Centennial Trail that runs along the Spokane River to Riverfront Park in downtown Spokane and site of the 1874 World Exposition. West of town we rode through a fabulous neighborhood (read: "this has got to be expensive real estate") along the bluffs overlooking the river and a forested park beyond. Susan kept saying foolish things like, "I could live there" and "Oooh, buy me that one." At the end of the day we rode back to our trailer.
By the way, although the truck cannot completely shake the habit of smoking a little at least it is down to a few cigarettes a day from a full pack before 8 AM ;-) Hopefully, we can live with it for the time being.
Buhl, Idaho - Sept. 23 - Oct. 1, 2005
Once again we headed south, and after an overnight stop just south of La Grande, Oregon we arrived in Buhl to stay with Ken and Claire. They recently purchased a new home on about 2 ½ acres, fully landscaped with a pond and large barn. Traveling is a wonderful adventure, but it was great seeing familiar faces for the first time since leaving Denver in early June.
Ken and Claire's home is located on a bluff overlooking the Snake River Valley, a country club and several fish farms. Ken recently acquired an 8-week-old gray-tabby kitten and two 3-month-old puppies. The puppies appear to be a mix of black lab, Doberman and Australian Shepard. We spent a lot of time getting our hands and arms punctured by sharp baby kitty teeth and claws, and slobbered on by rambunctious puppies. All good things.
The first evening we went out to dinner and met Ken's cousin and good friend, Dana. The next morning we met their friends Mike and Eileen at breakfast and later went to a classic car event in the nearby town of Hagerman.
The landscape here is amazing, but very hard to describe. Hopefully, some of the pictures capture the shear rock canyon walls with water pouring from aquifers feeding into the Snake River. The fields are littered with large red rocks making us wonder how they ever cleared them enough to plant potatoes and grains. Farmers have to be a tough and determined lot. We are also amazed at the trout and steelhead farms along the Snake River Valley. These hatchery/farms take advantage of the crystal clear water flowing from the rock faces of the canyon. Bill had an opportunity to take a boat ride on the Snake River. He positively drooled at the size of the giant trout in the River.
On Friday, September 30th, Bill drove to Montana to go fly fishing for three weeks with his friend Richard Jordan. Susan left the next day with Claire to head back to Claire's Sacramento home. We will be apart for nearly a month, which will be difficult.
