Memphis, TN - May 24 - 29, 2006
On May 24th we headed east to Meeman-Shelby Forest State Park on the banks of the Mississippi River, about 12 miles north of Memphis. We were impressed with the oak and maple forests in Arkansas, but the forest at Meeman-Shelby was so dense it allowed very little sunlight to filter through the canopy. It was a hardwood jungle. Initially, we couldn't get phone, TV or Internet service at the park. Bill worked extremely hard trying to aim the satellite dish through the dense foliage at our first campsite with no luck. After changing campsites and suffering through mosquitoes and extreme humidity he was able to establish an internet link. No trees were harmed during this endeavor. Honest.
Our stay in Memphis was subtropical - it rained briefly everyday. The South was continuing to experience higher than normal temperatures and we began to understand the value of "dew rags" to keep the perspiration out of one's eyes. Our glasses would actually fog up when we stepped outside our rig and the bugs (big hungry bugs) would find us within 1-2 seconds. We really enjoyed Memphis even though the hot, humid weather encouraged us to move slowly.
Our first stop was to the Visitor's Center on the River. As usual the folks at the Visitor's Center were very helpful. We then hopped a historic trolley for a tour of the downtown area. The driver was a kick and gave us a bit more insight to Memphis. He noted several points of interest including a small park that had once been the location of a slave auction. We were both saddened at the reminder and the thought of people being put on an auction block.
The driver also pointed out how the city is evolving. Like many other cities, Memphis is experiencing a neo-urban movement as abandoned warehouses becoming lofts, offices and retail establishments and downtown residential areas are being gentrified. The driver then digressed into a discussion of dogs and how some owners had no regard for his lawn and what their dogs left behind... end of history lesson. Ha!
Memphis is noted for giving birth to the blues and rock n roll, and it continues to play a major role in soul music. The city's tourist industry makes the most of its musical roots, and although the famous Beale Street has become a tourist mecca it is still great fun. On our first trip to Beale Street we listened to some blues at BB Kings Blues Club and the WC Handy (granddaddy of blues) Memorial Park, saw a rather sad performance by an Elvis impersonator at Club 152 and munched ribs at the Blues City Café.
A few days later we returned to downtown to tour the Smithsonian Rock 'n Soul Museum, a block off Beale and across the street from the Gibson Guitar Factory. We spent 3+ very enjoyable hours learning about the evolution of the blues and rock and roll; and listening to interviews with the owners of Sun, Stax and Ink recording studios, Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Otis Redding and many others; and sampling music starting from the days (1920s) when workers sang while they toiled in the fields. The museum is definitely a "must see". After the museum we moseyed over to Beale Street for a beer and more music.
We also visited Mud Island River Park and the Mississippi River Museum. Mud Island has a really cool ½ mile long replica of the Mississippi River. It starts with four walls of cascading water depicting the drainage basins of the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio and Arkansas Rivers. It then follows the course of the "Big Muddy" from the confluence of the Ohio at Cairo to the Delta. It was interesting to see how the river twists and turns its way to the Gulf of Mexico. Lake Pontchartrain is represented by a big wading pool and the Gulf of Mexico is big enough to paddle boats on. It was a big hit with the kids on the hot day we visited.
OK, now the confession. We didn't tour Graceland. We know, we know. It is an anathema to go to Memphis and not tour Graceland. (We may be punished by having to sit through bad Elvis impersonators for eternity.) But frankly, we were a little burned out and the stock market had taken a dump so we decided against the rather pricey tours ($20/person) and invested in diesel instead.
There were many places in Memphis we didn't have time or energy to see. Hopefully our future will include a return visit when the weather is a little less steamy. But for now, we are heading northwest for Branson, Missouri.
