Quartzsite - Jan. 13 - 27, 2006
Greetings from Area 526*
* It sounds like the introduction to a bad science fiction novel, so we had to use it. Explanation: the Bureau of Land Management assigns numbers to the dirt and gravel roads that crisscross the desert around Quartzsite. Our home for fifteen days was near the intersection of Old Yuma Road and La Posa West Road 526, about 1-2 miles south of beautiful downtown Quartzsite.
On January 13th we departed San Diego and headed east across the desert, destination Quartzsite. Both our parents spent time during their "rock hounding" days in the Quartzsite area and we wanted to see the locale of so many of their happy memories. Plus, we were advised that to be true RVers one must spend time boondocking near Quartzsite during the high season. We determined if we needed to pass the test of dust and sand without the benefit of water or electricity to be accepted as RVers, we would meet the challenge willingly. Of course, we aren't foolish; we brought our own water and power in the form of holding tanks, solar panels and a generator.
Our first night out we parked on BLM land near Lake Martinez just west of the Military Proving Ground north of Yuma. The next morning we moved north to select our patch of desert paradise at the La Posa Long Term Visitors Area. We spent the afternoon setting-up and were pleased to have a respectable distance to our nearest neighbor, known to us as Safari Dude. We had a beautiful view across the desert to the Kofa Mountains to the west, and Quartzsite Mountain to the east. That evening as we sat outside in the quiet desert watching the stars come out some nice folks about a half-mile away launched a fireworks show to entertain us. We decided this desert stuff was OK.
We were advised that the traffic in Q'site could be awful, so we adopted biking as our main means of transportation. You might ask, "What traffic in a desert county boasting just 4.4 persons per square mile?" True, the US Census Bureau credits Quartzsite with only 3,400 people, but during the winter an estimated 1.5 million people descend on this little hamlet - violà! Traffic.
The place is really quite fascinating. While there is the expected number of "stick and mortar" buildings for a town of 3,400, the transient population arrive like desert tortoises with their homes on their backs and services are provided by vendors in tent cities with names like Rice Ranch, Hi-Jolly and Tyson Wells. The place brings to mind a Middle Eastern bazaar - minus the camels.
Actually, at one time there were camels, as well. In the mid-19th Century, the US Army imported a number of camels and drivers from the Middle East to provide transportation for patrolling the desert frontier. But the project was abandoned with the outbreak of the Civil War and none of the camels' descendants survive today.
Upon arrival, the number of RVs parked on the desert surrounding Q'site impressed us, but when the Annual RV Show started on the 21st the desert really filled up. The population must have tripled over the two days leading up to the weekend. Saturday we rode our bikes to the "Big Tent" and noted the northbound traffic was backed up for as far as we could see on Highway 95. It was bumper-to-bumper motor homes, fifth-wheels and trailers. Amazing.
The RV show lasted nine days, followed by the Car Show, and finally the annual Rock and Gem Show. Throughout the season the tent vendors are encamped selling everything from fine jewelry to 500 lb. amethyst geodes, and, of course, everything an RVer might want. The town has more than its share of colorful characters, including a nudist book dealer from Vermont (Paul Winer).
Our first several days were spent exploring Q'site and the tent cities on our bikes. We really enjoyed riding on the desert roads and were happy with our decision to keep the fat tires. January 17th was our 25th wedding anniversary. To celebrate we went to the "best restaurant in town", as advised by several locals. After that experience, we decided to eat at home for the rest of our stay.
We also perused the RV show and toured numerous upscale motor homes and fifth-wheels. While we didn't invest in a new home, we did contributed to the economy by purchasing hats and a new suspension system for our rig to mitigate the impact of the ubiquitous rough roads. We'll have the system installed in Deming, New Mexico.
We also took a few hikes including one to Palm Canyon on the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge. Palm Canyon is one of the few places native palms grow in Arizona, a remnant of a wetter period and a testament to the tenacity of nature. The desert in the refuge is beautiful, the birds numerous and views dramatic.
While we enjoyed our stay in Q'site, we were ready to move on. We both felt a long shower was in order and the clothes hamper could hold no more. We originally planned to visit Lake Havasu after Q'site. However, since Bill is considering becoming a Direcway Internet Satellite installer he wanted to attend a four-day satellite internet rally in Gila Bend. During the intervening days between Q'site and the rally, and based on no information or knowledge of the place, we decided to head to Tonopah, Arizona. So on January 28th these dusty desert rats put their equally dusty bikes back on the truck, hooked up our house and headed east on Interstate 10.
