Sevierville and Chattanooga, TN - Oct. 11 - 29, 2006

Sevierville, TN - October 11 - 14, 2006

We drove south from Berea, Kentucky to Sevierville, Tennessee in a blinding rainstorm.  Once the rain let up and the fog lifted we couldn't help but notice the numerous billboards advertising tourist attractions in Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg.  Clearly, Lady Bird Johnson's Highway Beautification message (get rid of the billboards) did not reach these beautiful mountains.  After several miles we realized our home for the next two weeks was a major tourist Mecca. 

We knew the
Great Smoky Mountain National Park was the most visited national park in the system, but we had no idea that Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge and Sevierville were such tourist traps.  We can't even begin to describe the traffic, but words like stopped and crawled spring to mind.  We planned to do a lot of hiking in the park, but we were only stout enough to brave the traffic twice.  Fortunately, we were able to find some back roads that allowed us to avoid most of the traffic for our routine outings.

Our first hike was along the
Appalachian Trail at about an elevation of 5,000 feet.  The night before the temperature dropped to 13 degrees and it was still quite cold when we started our hike.  We nearly ran up the trail trying to get warm.  Our fellow "Leaf Peepers" were out in force, but we left them behind after about a mile.  This hike provided fabulous views of the mountains, valleys and changing fall colors.

Our second hike was towards the end of our stay and took us along Abrahms Creek to Abrahms Falls.  We shared the trail with a busload of Amish folks.  Hiking and scrambling over rocks in long skirts just didn't seem safe, not to mention a bit breezy on this very chilly day.  The hike, stream and falls were beautiful, and the drive back was incredible.  The trees were in their full autumn finery and it seemed everywhere we looked was another perfect calendar picture.

We made three non-hiking expeditions to Knoxville, Jonesborough, Tennessee and Asheville, North Carolina.  We trekked into Knoxville for business and pleasure - and found the city very pleasurable.  We parked downtown and just rambled around.  We moseyed into a pedestrian mall where we watched locals polish their swing-dance moves and had a wonderful lunch.  We then roamed through a historic district and finished the day with a stroll along the Tennessee River.  We found Knoxville to be a friendly, kicked-backed city. 

However, back at the RV park things were heating up.  It seems a Tennessee vs. Alabama football game was on the calendar and the fans were rolling in sporting either Tennessee orange or Alabama red banners, flags, emblems, bumper stickers - well you get the idea.  One of our neighbors decorated a Christmas tree with dozens of orange T's for Tennessee and her entire space was festooned with orange pennants.  This was a serious rivalry.  Both teams were undefeated - until that Saturday when Bama woefully returned home.

Susan's friend Karen Peck recommended we go to Jonesborough, TN to catch the
National Storytelling Festival  Unfortunately, we missed the festival by a couple of weeks, but we did see Laura Simms, one of the weekly award-winning storytellers the Center features from May through October.  Jonesborough is the oldest town in Tennessee and claims the first state residence of Andrew Jackson, but the draw for visitors is the storytellers.  If you have the opportunity to attend, the festival is held the first weekend in October - plan ahead, it is very popular.

Our third outing was to the
Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina - a pleasant little 250-room cottage built by George Vanderbilt in 1889.  The self-guided mansion tour includes 62 rooms restored to their original splendor.  The furnishings are priceless and the art includes works by Renoir, Dürer, Sargeant, Whistler and Van Dyke, and 16th Century Flemish tapestries.

The 9,000 acres estate includes the mansion and gardens, a winery, farm village, a deer park and stables.  Frederick Law Olmsted, the landscape architect that designed New York's Central Park, created the Estate's naturalized woods, glens, ponds and meadows.

Hints:  Don't go on a weekend.  Plan for an entire day at the Estate - more if you can.  Order your tickets on-line or bring plenty of cash or credit… the tickets are a whopping $44/person!  On a busy day you may want to reverse the recommended tour order and see the mansion last when it is less crowded, but allow at least 2 hours.  Rent the audio tour guide.  There are several good and reasonably priced restaurants at the estate.  If you plan ahead, you can picnic on the beautiful grounds.  It is a great place to bike and walk.  Pace yourself and enjoy the ambience.
 
Chattanooga, TN - October 15 - 29, 2006

"Pardon me boys; is that the Chattanooga Choo Choo?
Track No. 9? I gotta be there on time."

We went to Chattanooga because it has such a catchy name and Susan's mother would sing the tune as a lullaby. 

There was a major storm system moving through the area during our visit, so we opted to extend our stay hoping to catch some sun.  It was a good decision.  Chattanooga has a lot to offer and in the fall sunshine it is radiant. 

On our first day rain was threatening but we braved the weather to visit the Civil War
Chickamauga & Chattanooga National Military Park. It was inconceivable that in the fall of 1863 a ferocious two-day battle resulting in 34,000 casualties erupted in these peaceful woods.  We drove through the Park trying to understand how the battle evolved, and imagining the cannon, shouts and cries.  We then walked 4 - 5 miles along the wooded paths encountering memorials, monuments and plaques at every turn.  We came upon many deer and squirrels along the way - but no other people, just ghosts of Rebs and Yanks. 

On our second day in Chattanooga it was pouring.  We decided to go to the
Tennessee Aquarium and empathize with the amphibians and fish.  We both think Monterey Aquarium in California is fabulous and we are hard to please; so when we say the Tennessee Aquarium is very impressive it is high praise indeed.  In 2005, the Aquarium added a new ocean exhibit space to its extensive fresh water installations.  It was a great way to spend a very wet day.

The sun came out on Sunday - how appropriate - so we loaded up our bikes and headed for the city.  We started our ride at Coolidge Park on the north side of the river.  The park, with its animal fountains and carousel, is quite pretty and is bordered by an interesting funky neighborhood.  We rode across the Walnut Street pedestrian bridge to the
Bluff View Art District, and then followed the path along the river.  The Bluff has a wonderful sculpture garden and the Hunter Museum of American Art housed in an antebellum mansion with a new ultra-modern addition that juts out over the river.  There is a steep path snaking up to the museum from the bridge that reminded us of San Francisco's Lombard Street.  The 12-mile Riverwalk and bike path was adorned with the occasional sculpture as it passed through several marshes, nature preserves and parks.

After our ride we drove up to
Lookout Mountain that soars about 2,000 feet above Chattanooga Valley.  There is a one-mile long, 72% grade Incline Railway to the top that is supposed to offer some fabulous views through its glass ceiling - but we chose to drive up.  After admiring the views and homes, we finished the day with a scenic drive through some of the most spectacular fall foliage we have seen so far.  It was truly a stellar day.

On October 30 we hitched up and headed south through Georgia, via Oak Mountain State Park outside Birmingham - destination Gulf Shores, Alabama.