Narragansett, RI - Sept. 8 - 13, 2009

On September 8th we traveled south from Plattsburgh, NY, across Massachusetts and through Connecticut to Narragansett, Rhode Island.  Once again the drippy weather followed us.   To quote Mark Twain:  "Everybody complains about the weather, but nobody does anything about it." 

We stayed at Fisherman's Memorial State Park in Narragansett, located just north of the Point Judith Lighthouse, and a half-mile from the sea.  This is a lovely park with shaded, grassy sites, and paved, if unlevel, pads.  The largest and the only level sites are located in the spacious full hook-up section.  The area offers ample biking and walking opportunities, and a Farmer's Market is held in the park's parking lot each weekend.

Narragansett is a charming holiday beach town with well-tended summer cottages, B & Bs, restaurants and a comfortable relaxed ambiance.  Newport, situated on the eastern shore of Narragansett Bay, has a different feel entirely.

We visited Newport, the Home of America's Cup, twice while in the area, first to lunch in the downtown area and admire the beautiful sailboats and yachts, and then visit the incredible 'Gilded Age' mansions.  We returned several days later to amble along the beautiful Cliff Walk. 

This port city has a rich and varied history.  Founded on a foundation of religious tolerance, it became home to America's first Jewish community in the 17th Century.  In the early 18th Century it became a haven for pirates, and later, during the Revolutionary War, Britain used Newport as a base for their naval operations.  In the late 19th Century wealthy merchants and financiers (a new brand of pirates?) moved to town, building their summer 'cottages' on the bluffs overlooking the sea.  Today these Gilded Age mansions once owned by families such as the Vanderbilts and Astors attract tourists to this incredibly wealthy city.

The Preservation Society of Newport County has restored ten mansions, which are available for touring.  Several more mansions make up the Salve Regina University campus.  Although one cannot access the university buildings, one can roam the grounds and admire their grandeur.

We toured the Breakers, Vanderbilt's incredibly opulent, fully restored 70-room summer cottage.  This mansion put the 'gild' on the Gilded Age.  Yes folks, all that gold in the entry and dining room really is 24 carat gold.  If that isn't sumptuous enough, the morning room is paneled in platinum.  Isn't it amazing what one could buy before the imposition of that cursed personal income tax?

After the Breakers we toured the Elms, built for Edward Julius Berwind who made his fortune in Pennsylvania coal.  The mansion hasn't been completely restored so was a bit of a disappointment, but the terraces, gardens and pavilions were beautiful.

On our one completely sunny day we returned to Newport to explore the beautiful Cliff Walk.  During the Gilded Age America's patricians would stroll this promenade that hugs the cliffs overlooking the sea on one side and the back of Bellevue Avenue's fabulous mansions on the other.  Today, the first two miles of the path are paved, but the last mile of the walk will have you scrambling across the rocks and hopping over tidal pools.

After a couple of days of drizzle interspersed with driving rain, we developed a serious case of cabin fever.  Bill did a bit a research and suggested we drive up to Providence for lunch and a tour of the Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design.  It turned out to be a fabulous day in spite of the dreary weather. 

Providence is a lovely city located on the Providence or Mill River with its graceful bridges, river walk and gondolas.  Yes, there are actually gondolas plying the river. 

After an excellent lunch at the Union Station Brewery we found our way to the Museum of Art.   The museum was a very pleasant surprise.  It has an interesting collection of ancient, contemporary and decorative arts; and if you are a fan of fine 18th Century furniture this is the place for you. 

After we left the museum, we walked along historic streets of the city, admiring the buildings, gardens and vistas - and getting wet.  Although there was much more to see and do, the weather was telling us it was time to head home.

Rhode Island had a lot more to offer, but it was time for us to leave.  On September 14th we headed for East Lyme, Connecticut, hoping for some sunny weather.